2008 Lazy Creek Gewürztraminer

Anderson Valley, CA; 13.3% ABV
$6 at the Berkeley, CA, store on about 2 May.  Still some there 6 May.

2008_LazyCrkVin_GewurzThis came in a fancy, tall bottle, with sealing wax over the cork and very top of the bottle.  Also, we don’t see wine made from Gewürztraminer grapes often at the GO, so I jumped at this one despite its slightly advanced age.

I liked it only so-so.  While the flavors were nice and interesting — a nose of yellow peach and less ripe melon leads to a palate of lemon, yellow peach, lychee and white melon rind — I found it dominated by rather piercing acid.  It went reasonably well with food, but it was still often unpleasantly tart.  That acid combined with a slight oxidation leads me to give only Drinkable, although pretty close to Thumbs Up.

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4 thoughts on “2008 Lazy Creek Gewürztraminer

  1. dluber

    I hope it’s worth aging. I’m now drinking up the easy-going Sparr Gwz from last year.

    A little chemistry lesson: a chemical first identified in grapefruit, called naringin, is also found in Gewürztraminer and sometimes Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. This bitter compound is a glycoside, i.e., a molecule coupled with glucose. Enzymatic action in yeast can split it into glucose (sweet and fermentable) and an aromatic compound. This may take a long time when the yeast is mostly dead. A synthetic version of this enzyme is sometimes added to grapefruit juice to debitter it, or to wines to release aroma compounds.

    Naringin can also cause problems with metabolizing certain drugs, so if you read the fine print on your prescription it may say to avoid grapefruit juice – they’re not kidding, the side effects can be serious.

    A derivative of naringin, naringin dihydrochalcone, is 1,000 times sweeter than sugar!

    Reply
  2. dluber

    BW stole this from my queue, but I’m off the hook now. Truth be told, I’m torn between Thumbs Up and Drinkable here. I really want to like this wine given the pedigree (one of my favorite varietals and a memorable winery), but it ultimately disappoints. I too found it somewhat shrill and lacking charm, although it is identifiable as a Gwz and not flabby and cloying like so many CA examples. However, the aromatics were low and leaned to the sour diesel/grapefruit end rather than the spicy-sweet lychee/rose petal character of a fine gewurz. The bone-dry minerality could let it pass for a real Alsatian Gwz in a lean year, but it’s not a very friendly wine. I wasn’t noticing any oxidation, so I picked up a couple more in hopes that more age will bring out the best in it, but it’s certainly a gamble.

    Reply
    1. Seedboy

      dluber, that is where I am on this wine, I’m hoping that the bitterness on the finish opens up into something more agreeable, while I’m drinking the Willm alsatian gewurtz I got from the GO in the fall of 2011.

      Reply
      1. BargainWhine Post author

        Well, it did improve somewhat with air, so you guys have a chance. Please let me know in a year or two. 🙂

        Reply

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